On the banks of River Kollidam lies a small picturesque village with centuries-old temples, historically known for its textile industry – the Kodali Karuppur Village. Despite the fact that the river continues to flow and contribute to the village’s agricultural sector, the textile infrastructure that once produced the famed textiles, Kodali Karuppur sarees, no longer exists.
There are three characteristics which distinguish a textile from another: one-of-a-kind designs, unique techniques and highly talented artisans. Kodali Karuppur is one among very few textiles which are defined by all of the above. It combines two very different processes: hand painting and brocade weaving. It is indeed unfortunate that only a few of its original pieces survive which are on display at a few museums.
Once woven only for the queens and nobilities of the Tanjore court, Kodali Karuppur textile is an extraordinary combination of Jamdani and dye painting, found by the Maratha rulers of Thanjavur during the 18th-19th century. The Saree was an essential part of the bride’s trousseau in Baroda, Kolhapur, and Satara. Because of the highly skilled labour involved, the craft disappeared with the advent of royalty in the country.
Today’s Kodali Karuppur sarees have lost their original allure and can only be recreated with block printing and natural colours. The original craft, on the other hand, is so much more.